Rope Bondage guide for BDSM Lifestyle play or slave training.

This doc­u­ments only cov­ers the very basics of rope bondage.

Bondage is about tak­ing con­trol if you are a dom­i­nant and loos­ing con­trol or let­ting go of con­trol if you are a sub­mis­sive (slave). Bondage can be an impor­tant part of slave training.Bondage can ren­der a feel­ing of help­less­ness to the tied slave girl. For many this feel­ing of help­less­ness and know­ing the other party can do as they will to their body is a huge turn on. For some it is an emo­tional release that is very calm­ing and rest­ful while some strug­gle against the bind­ing to feel the loss of con­trol. It is every indi­vid­u­al­ized reac­tion depend­ing of the slave in bondage.Bondage is a very use­ful tool that a Mas­ter should learn. It is not nec­es­sary to learn the com­pli­cated and time-consuming Japan­ese rope bondage tech­niques to do a com­pe­tent job of restrict­ing your slave. Japan­ese rope bondage often takes hours because it is a process of build­ing on layer after layer of ropes. Good results can often be achieved with a basic knowl­edge of ropes, a few knots, safety pre­cau­tions and a good imag­i­na­tion.  So prac­tice the basics.

Also good gen­eral bondage can be done with the use of leather wrist and ankle cuffs. It’s much quicker and can be just as secure as ropes. It also takes less skill and is safer for beginners.

Bondage can be used for erotic stim­u­la­tion, pun­ish­ment, dis­ci­pline train­ing, or humil­i­a­tion. It pro­vides a real life exam­ple to the slave of her Master’s own­er­ship of her body, time and space. She is com­pletely at his mercy while bound and remains so until he decides to release her.

Good bondage can be obtained with the knowl­edge of only a few sim­ple knots and hitches. The basic knots are the square or reef knot and the bow­line knot. Both are cov­ered under the knot sec­tion of this web­site. A link is pro­vided below.

Bondage for restraint:

Bondage for plea­sure and dis­ci­pline train­ing. — Gen­er­ally, this type of bondage should be very restric­tive in nature. The less move­ment avail­able to the slave, the better.

 Bondage for pun­ish­ment --

This type of bondage should be less restric­tive. The slave should be placed in a posi­tion that, over time, becomes increas­ingly more uncom­fort­able. Also, bore­dom is a use­ful ele­ment to incor­po­rate into this type of bondage. Sim­ple exam­ples are:

 1) Tying a slave to a pole or beam while stand­ing and leav­ing her legs untied and not blind­folded her. It pro­vides a very lim­ited means of move­ment, but will get very uncom­fort­able over time. Not hav­ing a blind­fold will also make it harder for her to drift off into her thoughts and ignore the pun­ish­ment. Time is an impor­tant ele­ment of this punishment.

 2) Putting her on her knees and tying her hands above her head with her ankles tied to her waist is very effec­tive. This does not allow the slave to stand but she can still move some. Being bound, bored, alone and uncom­fort­able is a good teach­ing tool. This type of bondage also becomes painful over time,

 Restric­tive bondage is done in one of two ways;

1) sym­met­ric or

2) a-symmetric bondage.

A sim­ple exam­ple of sym­met­ric bondage is tying her hands together and her feet together. This is sym­met­ric in that both sides of the body and her limbs are tied in the same way. Sym­met­ric bondage is the best way to allow a slave to be calm and at peace while drift­ing into sub­space. If med­i­ta­tion is your goal, then use sym­met­ric bondage.

A-symmetric bondage is usu­ally more dif­fi­cult for her. The mind tends to react to a-symmetric bondage dif­fer­ently than sym­met­ric bondage because it is less peace­ful and harder to adjust to. It is also a good pun­ish­ment bondage. An exam­ple of a-symmetric bondage is tying one arm behind her back, one arm above her head, one leg straight and one leg bent. Some forms of a-symmetric can be a real mindfuck.

Often blind­folds, gags, butt plugs and other toys are used in com­bi­na­tion with bondage.

Before using intense bondage with an inex­pe­ri­enced sub­mis­sive, it is often nec­es­sary to do some train­ing bondage first. This can include light bondage and bondage for a short peri­ods of time.

Some dif­fer­ent ways that are used to bind a slave:

a) limit move­ment but it don’t immo­bi­lize. (Hand­cuffs, Leg Irons, and some straight-Jacket)

b) bind­ing body limbs to each other or the torso (tie legs together or arms to body).

c) spread­ing parts of the body apart using a device. Often called tieing a slave down. (tie legs apart to bed post or spreader bar). A slave can be stand­ing or lay­ing down with this type of bondage.

d) Using spe­cial bondage fur­ni­ture or other reg­u­lar fur­ni­ture to ties the body to. (such as chairs or St. Andrew’s cross).

e) sus­pen­sion bondage — sus­pend­ing the body in the air by attach­ing the ropes to eye-hooks in the ceil­ing or a bondage frame.

f) wrap­ping the body with saran (plastic) wrap or cling film. This is often called mum­mi­fi­ca­tion or cocooning.

g) vac­uum pump that removed air from a con­tainer and restricts slave’s movement.

h) ver­bal bondage — The slave is only told to not move and can’t until the order is canceled.

 

Basic rope bondage Knots for use in BDSM

 

Knots & Hitches used in bondage of a slave

You will need to learn only two knots and two hitches to per­form effec­tive bondage,

The basic knots and hitches for rope bondage are:

Square Knot (reef knot): This is a sim­ple knot that is used to tie two ropes or the ends of one rope together. The knot is more or less flat and applies less pres­sure on the skin than most other knots. another example

 

 

 

French Bow­line Knot: This is a good knot for bind­ing wrists and ankles because it will not tighten and cut off cir­cu­la­tion. Use 5/16 or 3/8 inch rope for bind­ing limbs

 

 

 

 

 

Hitch:

The clove hitch is prob­a­bly the eas­i­est and most used hitch. It can also be used to secure a rope to a bed post. It does NOT work

well on large or smooth sur­faces and should never be used for sus­pen­sion. It is also NOT use­ful for

more than one direc­tion of pull against it. It should NOT be used on wrists and ankles or for that mat­ter around the body, because it becomes tighter as pres­sure is applied to it.

 

 

Half Hitch: This is a sim­ple hitch and is bet­ter than the clove hitch and can be used to tie a rope to a reg­u­lar sized bed post. It should only be used for bind­ing a rope to a post and works best on smaller post. It is also very easy to untie. It should NOT be used on wrists and ankles or around the body. It should NOT be used for sus­pen­sion. another example

 

 

 

 

 

 

One addi­tional knot and one hitch that you may wish to learn:

Slip­ping Reef Knot: This is tied the same way as the square knot, but you fold a loop in left rope end after step one in the above exam­ple of a square knot. Then con­tinue tying like a square knot. This gives a quick release.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Anchor Hitch: This is a more com­plex hitch, but is much stronger than the half hitch. It is also more com­pli­cated to untie. This knot can be used for sus­pen­sion. This hitch will not deform under stress. It should NOT be used on wrists and ankles or for that mat­ter around the body at all. All hitches tend to tighten under pres­sure and will cut of blood cir­cu­la­tion. see this exam­ple http://www.apparent-wind.com/knots/anchor-hitch/ Lark’s Head or Cow Hitch: Avoid using the loop shown below around a pole. It is con­sid­ered weak and does not pro­vide a means to untie it when used in sus­pen­sion. Avoid using this loop around a body limb. How­ever, it can be used around the main torso.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Bondage safety  BDSM scene play

There is no such thing as “com­plete bondage safety” only what you are will­ing to accept as a degrees of risk.   Define what you want to accom­plish with bondage then take classes or pri­vate instruc­tion from a qual­i­fied person.

Dur­ing bondage scenes it is the duty of the Mas­ter to take care of the sub­mis­sive. It’s your respon­si­bil­ity to watch for any breath­ing prob­lems or signs of cir­cu­la­tion prob­lems. Watch not only for lack of breath­ing but hyper­ven­ti­la­tion. Make sure you can remove the ropes fast and have ban­dage scis­sors avail­able to assist you in cut­ting the ropes, if nec­es­sary. Prac­tice tying and unty­ing the knots you are going to use.

Never use rope of a smaller diam­e­ter than ¼ inch and for safety rea­sons never use ropes smaller and 3/8 inch with­out prac­tice. Never obstruct the throat with a rope by cross­ing a rope across the front of the neck. Fig­ure out how to make the rope cross on the back side of the neck. Never tie a rope around the neck.

Take care in the amount of strain on joints (wrists, knees, back, neck, elbows, shoul­ders, etc.) Watch out for con­stric­tion of nerves and blood ves­sels. Watch for signs of tin­gling, numb­ness, abnor­mal color, or cold­ness in extrem­i­ties. Never leave the sub­mis­sive in bondage alone and unguarded.

Check the ropes as you are tying for tight­ness. Always leave it loose enough to get one fin­ger between the rope and the slave’s skin. Check ropes often to insure they don’t tighten because of body swelling or twisting.

Com­mu­ni­cate with the bound sub­mis­sive from time to time and insure she is O.K. Use a safe sig­nal to allow her to alert you of a prob­lem. With more coils of rope used around the body or extrem­i­ties there is less chance of cut­ting off cir­cu­la­tion because there is more sur­face area used. Limbs fall asleep in two ways, lack of blood cir­cu­la­tion and pinch­ing nerve paths. Be aware of both ways. If you use a gag on the sub­mis­sive your respon­si­bil­ity for observ­ing increases. Remem­ber, the risk always increases with a gag.

 

Types of Rope to use for use in BDSM scene play:

Nylon is a good rope to use for bondage. It is strong, water­proof, unties eas­ily and is gen­er­ally com­fort­able. The ends unravel very easy if not heat sealed with a flame. Braided nylon is smoother and causes less irri­ta­tion to the skin than the twisted strand rope.

Cot­ton rope, although soft, is not con­sid­ered a good rope for bondage. The cen­ter core in most cot­ton ropes is not solid or strong and it is sub­ject to retain mois­ture which means retain­ing germs. Knots are hard to untie in cot­ton rope and it does not wear well.

Para­chute rope is cheap, strong and offered in many col­ors. I have never used it and have no per­sonal opin­ion about it’s use. How­ever, I have been told that it is not suitable.

Hemp rope is a tra­di­tional rope used in bondage. It is stiff and ruff when new. It is scratchy with an uncom­fort­able feel and is also harder to untie. It will become softer after being washed sev­eral times. This rope also tight­ens when wet and is not good for sus­pen­sion because it will rot.

Climb­ing rope is expen­sive and too thick for prac­ti­cal uses accept for the sup­port of a sus­pen­sion device.

Size of Rope to use for BDSM scene play:

I’d rec­om­mend 5/16 or 3/8 inch braided nylon rope for most bondage. Some sub­mis­sives like the feel of 1/4 inch rope more. The 3/8 inch diam­e­ter rope is less likely to cause a loss in blood cir­cu­la­tion and is a good size to use while learn­ing bondage.

Braided rope can be found at boat sup­ply stores. It’s also nice to have some shorter ropes that are 1/4 inch diam­e­ter to use. Lengths of Ropes: In 3/8 inch diam­e­ter rope, I’d rec­om­mend hav­ing, at least, one rope that is 100 feet long, two 50 feet long, two 25 feet long, and sets of four ropes at 10 feet, 5 feet, and 2 ½ feet. Some 10 feet, 5 feet and 2 1/2 feet lengths in 1/4 inch diam­e­ter are nice to have also.

After prac­tice, you may also want to get some 5/16 diam­e­ter ropes. The ropes can be of dif­fer­ent col­ors or have the ends dyed dif­fer­ent col­ors to show lengths. It is also help­ful to have the cen­ter marked for quick and even folding.

 

 

 

Jay Wiseman’s “Erotic Bondage hand book” will be a help­ful guide for those start­ing slave train­ing and new to bdsm